by David Zenian
KARZAKH, Georgia — "The sad days, like winter," wrote one of the fathers of Armenian folklore, "come and go. "
These words of optimism, written in the 1890's by a Karzakh native and immortalized by generations of Armenians around the world, took a different meaning this year when thousands gathered in this remote village June 27 to mark the 146th anniversary of poet Serop Levonian, or Kousan Jivani.
A source of inspiration for Armenians at times of national tragedy, the poem was recited to a captive audience gathered on the lush green hills above this potentially rich agricultural community struggling to break out of the vicious cycle of years of communism. The mood was jovial despite the prevailing hardships and "delicate relations" with the central government in Tbilisi following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the upsurge of nationalism in Georgia.
In the village square, a 10-foot bronze statue of Vladimir Lenin still stands not only as a constant reminder of the "old days", but also the lingering system which needs to be changed. "We believe this is the only Lenin statue still standing in the Caucasus. We dedicated it in 1989 — yes, as communism was collapsing around us. But this is Karzakh, where change is a very slow process," says Melsig Torossian, the vice-chairman of the Regional Council.
But Torossian, like others in the region, are convinced that the "old days" will end. "Lenin's statue is for sale — to the highest bidder. We have had no offers so far, but then we do not get any visitors from abroad," he said. "If you bring in any offers, make sure that they are over 25,000 Dollars. Anything less than that is not acceptable . Please remember, the money we make from the sale will be used to improve the living conditions in the village," Torossian said with a smile.
Karzakh, a village of 500 people, has no telephone links with the outside world — including Tbilisi. Many of the single story village dwellings are made of brick and mud. Most houses do not have running water, and many families still share their yards with their cattle. There is no sewage system and the 21 mile-long road to the regional capital of Akhalkalak was last asphalted more than five years ago. Winters are harsh and long, and Karzakh is often cut off "from the rest of the world" for several months at a time.
"This was a typical communal farm, and because of the central government's prevailing neglect, some sort of collective farming has to be maintained. No farmer can survive on his own under these conditions. We have to stick together, otherwise farming will collapse and so will our very existence on this land" Torossian said. When vital farming equipment broke down at harvest time last year, a delegation from the village had to travel to Armenia to get help. "We could not have done without them. And God knows how much help they need," a local villager added.
If geography has an impact on communities, Karzakh stands out as a good example. Less than 45 miles to the southeast is the Armenian city of Gumairi (Leninakan). A similar distance to the south in Turkey is the city of Kars and 35 miles to the west is the city of Ardahan. The border with Turkey proper is a mile or two away across the Khozamin Lake.
Standing on a hilltop overlooking the village, the historical realities acquire a different meaning for every age group. "My ancestors came from Erzerum in the 1820's. For my grandfather's generation, home was beyond the lake . For me, Georgia is home, but for my son, the future is in Armenia," said a local member of the village council.
"Armenians here will never assimilate, and the Georgians know that. In fact, we are left alone — sometimes to the point of total neglect. Sometimes we wish we were less neglected," he said with a grin.
An estimated 130,000 Armenians live in the Javakhk administrative area adjacent to northwest Armenia where Karzakh and many similar villages are scattered along high mountains and fertile valleys.
"This is a little Armenia in Georgia, but we have no political ambitions or territorial claims. We love both our parents. As for the hardships we are facing, well, in Kousan Jivani's words: The sad days, like winter, come and go. We will prevail and prosper," says Samuel Petrossian, the Tbilisi-appointed administrator of the region who was the key speaker at the Kousan Jivani celebrations.
