In order to have a clearer perspective of life in Armenia after independence, it seemed a good idea to visit a few cities in Russia, particularly those with large concentrations of Armenians. As a vacation I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. As a fact finding trip it was interesting. All things considered, Armenia, in comparison, is doing at least as well, if not considerably better, than most places.
In Russia, other than Moscow or St. Petersburg, progress is slow. Industry and commerce have still a long way to go. Armenians, while earning higher salaries in some Russian cities, are generally considered foreigners (even if they've lived there for 200 years). They are often called "black", a term used by Russians to connote people from the Southern Caucasus. In Russia, two other things were obvious; personal safety is always a concern and a businessman can only succeed by illegal means.
The largest concentration of Armenians in Russia is in the Northern Caucasus. It is estimated that anywhere from 500,000 to 700,000 live in the areas of Rostov-on-Don, Armavir, Astrakhan, Krasnodar and Sochi. Arriving in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the Armenian population increased after the 1915 Genocide in Turkey with additional waves coming recently after the massacres in Azerbaijan and the civil war in Abkhazia (Georgia).
Krasnodar
Krasnodar is about two hours by air from Yerevan. Located in the Northern Caucasus, it was founded by Catherine the Great in 1793 as the city of Yekaterinodar.
Arriving about 8 PM I had requested and expected to stay at a hotel. I and my two traveling companions were told by the local Armenians hosting us that it wasn't a good idea. "Why?' I asked. "Well, it isn't so safe. We've arranged an apartment or a private house. It's your choice", was the response. Determined, we went to one local dimly lit hotel only to find there wasn't any hot water (it was so unappealing I didn't even get out of the car). Moving on to the second hotel, we were told by a surly receptionist that no rooms were available. A few dollars would have secured us rooms I'm sure but as I looked at the guests walking around the lobby and a half asleep doorman with too many drinks under his belt I decided maybe they were right, it wasn't safe.
The house we stayed at belonged to a Georgian-Armenian family who had settled in Krasnodar ten years ago. By local standards it was quite nice. With two generations living in the two story house, each floor was complete with two bedrooms, living room, kitchen and bathroom. The bathroom was interesting since the shower was simply a waist high faucet with a ledge under it to sit on and a drain on the floor, all completely open to the rest of the bathroom.
The family had insisted we dine with them the first evening but we had already agreed to join Rev. Fr. Yeznik Petrossian who runs the Northern Caucasus Diocese and a few church and community members at a local Armenian owned restaurant. I felt a little guilty because, without doubt, if the family was inviting us to dinner they had already gone to a lot of trouble. I needn't have worried. We were served the entire meal of stuffed grape leaves, potatoes, vegetables, chicken, lamb and an interesting dish in a hollowed-out pumpkin filled with rice, honey, raisins and nuts (a Georgian delicacy) for breakfast at 9 AM.
Krasnodar is a spread-out town of about 800,000 inhabitants. Every street is lined with 19th and early 20th century distinctive one story Russian style wooden houses with shuttered windows. Most are quite dilapidated but now and then one sees renovation and expansion underway. The city has wonderful, enormous trees everywhere, their branches often reaching to the middle of the street, touching the trees on the other side. But, all in all, the city is run down, most buildings badly in need of repair. Like other cities in the former Soviet Union, open air markets sell foreign goods and a few shops, just a few, have opened with electronic goods or sport clothes.
Here, as in other cities and towns of the Northern Caucasus, Catherine the Great was responsible for relocating Armenians from the Crimea to Yekaterinodar (Krasnodar) in the late 18th century. Originally a Cossack settlement, the city became their military headquarters and in 1860 their capital city. With Cossacks having little aptitude or interest in agriculture, Empress Catherine distributed all the farm lands to Germans, Greeks and Armenians.
By 1801 the first Armenian Church was built. From 1914 to 1922 an impressive school in the center of town and two other churches were constructed for the 50,000 Armenian population. The Stalin era saw an end to organized religion and private education. By 1961 all the Armenian churches were destroyed, one clergyman murdered, and the school became a public library.
Armenians now comprise the largest ethnic group (outside of Russians) in Krasnodar. It is difficult to know exactly how many there are, but the population has grown with refugees from Azerbaijan and Abkhazia (Georgia) and migrating Armenians from Armenia. Active community members were successful in obtaining property from the city government for a church. At present a trailer serves as a chapel, a two room small building for baptisms, another trailer as an office and 100 ft. away, the skeleton of a high, red brick church is under construction through the generosity of one local donor.
In Krasnodar, like quite a few other cities immediately after independence, an "Armenian Association" was legally formed. Here as in other cities in the new diaspora, conflicts have erupted between original organizations and newly formed church councils. But it’s probably only a matter of time. Like everywhere in this world it's a struggle for power. Here, too, like everywhere, these members complain that Armenians are building expensive houses and driving Mercedes but they don't donate a penny. One man, building an enormous house (which they showed me) was approached a few months ago only to say, "I don't have any money." The church member cried "How about a donation in the same amount you paid for your new front door!"
The stories are many in Krasnodar. One feels sad to see Armenians struggling so hard to maintain and renew their language and heritage after a lifetime of oppression. The bigotry against ethnics is always uppermost in their minds although a few said it has eased a little this year. The Cossacks, the most avid ultra-nationalists, still march up and down the streets in their black and red silver bulleted uniforms, proud of their far right ideology. Seeing a group in front of their center, I asked if we could stop the car to take a photograph. "We have to ask them first," said the hesitant Armenian driving the car.
"Just say you're American." First they looked me up and down with grim faces, then they heard "tourist", and then they straightened their uniforms and posed with pride.
Vartan Kukuian, Krasnodar born historian and professor, tells the story of how Armenians came together during the Soviet period to clean the Armenian gravestones in the 19th century cemetery. Caught the first day, the KGB disbursed them, telling them it was against the law and threatening them with imprisonment. From then on, they gathered in the night, always watchful of the police, hiding their brushes and cleaning supplies and going in small numbers until they polished every stone.
Without doubt, given time, they will succeed.
Sochi
Sochi was once the premier resort for Russians. Located on the Black Sea with over 100 km of coastline, tall palm trees, wide boulevards, green, lush mountains and hundreds of one to five star sanitaria (hotels), the city caters to the elite. I say once because they tell me tourism has dropped from a high of 4,000,000 in its best days to 1,000,000 in 1995. The elite are now free to travel anywhere in the world it seems.
Immediately one notices the superior construction of endless acres of grand villas and white, glassed-in apartment buildings with balconies. President Boris Yeltsin has a walled in dacha hidden in the hills above the city's main boulevard. The temperate climate, similar to the French Riviera, has induced many to build second homes. The population of Greater Sochi, incorporated in 1961 to include its surrounding villages, is 500,000 plus of which 100,000 are officially registered as Armenians.
There are some fifteen villages in Greater Sochi, with names like Beranda, Adler, Shaumian, Loyum, Salonika, which were once all Armenian. Arriving from Turkey, Georgia and other parts of Russia, many began as tobacco farmers in the 19th century. In 1950 Stalin imported a number of Russians into the area decreasing the Armenian population in these villages to the present 50% to 70%.
There is a school in Sergei's Village (laughingly called Sarkis's Village by local Armenians) that was originally established by Armenians in 1913. It has since moved a few miles away to its present site and is now a 600 student registered Russian public school with an 88% Armenian enrollment. The Russians tried to close it some years back but there was so much protest from the teachers, students and families, the authorities backed off. Classes are divided into two sections, Russian and Armenian. Although the Armenian language and history is still taught in the Russian section, most classes are conducted in Russian. Since many families no longer understood Armenian and felt their children would have greater success in their careers learning in Russian, the Russian division was introduced. The principal said it was a hard decision but "we didn't want to lose our students."
In all of Greater Sochi, including a beautiful school in town located right on the Black Sea in a former villa, there are six Armenian schools. The enrollment in all the schools has risen in the last few years with refugees from Abkhazia, Azerbaijan and families from Armenia.
Arthur Mavian, Mayor of the Adler/Lohi region, mountain villages about forty minutes from downtown Sochi, was born in Lohi, as was his father. His grandfather came from Turkey in 1883 on tobacco business and decided to stay. The area is also known for producing tea, walnuts and fruit. The Lohi Club, an Armenian Center, was built in 1985.
Mayor Mavian, a kind, gentle man in his late forties or early fifties, says that the Adler region now has an Armenian population of some 50,000. At least 15,000 of that number have come recently from Abkhazia (only a few miles away from Sochi) because of the civil war. Their homes confiscated, their families in danger, they are trying to reestablish their lives. Asked how they find work, he said most are in construction, trade or farming while others have local relatives who help them out. All told it is estimated that some 50,000 unregistered Armenian refugees have poured in from Abkhazia.
Mavian is one of three Armenian mayors in the region since 1982. He adds ' that a number of Armenians are reaching good positions, much to the discontent of some 5000 local Cossacks. They're in Sochi, too!
In Sochi, as in Krasnodar, a new Armenian church is under construction, again by a donation from one donor. In both cities, the donors have undertaken the actual design and building of the churches, somewhat to the dismay of members and clergy who would like to be involved.
Sochi too has open markets selling foreign goods. Like elsewhere these retailers have yet to solidify their businesses and move into shops. Also like other Russian towns, Lenin's statue remains, neither admired nor scorned. Beautiful as the scenery is, Sochi is still a Soviet town. Don't rush to make reservations!
Another hotel story. This one's a lulu! Fr. Yeznik Petrossian, escorting us to Sochi from Krasnodar, suggested we stay at one of the five star sanitaria. He said service was great, the best of the best stayed there. Knowing there was a Radisson Hotel in town I insisted on checking in there. Unlike most Radissons in the U.S. this one was quite grand, especially the enormous swimming pool with cabanas, health club, elegant lobby and casino. What else could one want?
The second afternoon I went to my room about five while the others accompanying me went to meet friends. About six o'clock I heard, Louise, Louise and an anxious knocking on my door. Opening it I saw an alarmed face saying "I just wanted to know if you were all right." "Why wouldn't I be all right?" I asked. The answer: there's been a shootout in the lobby. We're supposed to stay in our rooms all night and order room service for dinner.
Well, I couldn't miss this, especially when I know I'm writing an article for the AGBU news. Reaching the lobby, the first thing we encountered was a hotel security man saying "go back to your rooms." In the usual Russian style, we ignored him only to see a few feet ahead Russian soldiers and police in battle fatigues with machine guns. They didn't say a word.
The lobby was in chaos with a number of hotel guests (including special UN Peacekeeping forces who were probably on R & R from Abkhazia and U.S. and European businessmen) staring at the floor and walls: four men were lying wounded on the marble floor of the lobby; another dead with a sheet over him; two others handcuffed on a couch; blood smeared from one end of the lobby floor to the other; bullet holes on several walls, the mirrors over the house phones, the front desk and two floor to ceiling glass panes at the front door.
I tried to ask the security man and the desk clerks what happened. They were obviously too frightened to speak or were told to say nothing. We finally moved over to a bar overlooking the whole scene where other guests were now congregated. Apparently most of them were in the lobby when the shooting occurred and they all fled to the nearest exit leading to the swimming pool. Finally, one of my friends buttered up Svetlana, the cocktail waitress, in Russian and she said the shoot-out was between a Sochi gang and a Moscow Bank contingency that was staying at the hotel villas next door.
The doctors arrived, seemingly doing little for the wounded who were strangely quiet and grim but obviously in pain. The dead body was removed to outside the front door where it remained for at least four hours and finally about 9 PM the area was roped off and the KGB elite arrived. They proceeded to pick up all the bullets, check the sofas and tables for fingerprints and write their reports.
Unfortunately the casino was immediately closed as were the front doors of the hotel. The "Ladies of the Night" who are to be found lounging around every Russian hotel looking for customers had immediately made a bee line for the front door, crying and asking to be taken home. We all had a quiet dinner and went to bed.
In the morning, dozens of posters suddenly adorned the walls and mirrors that had bullet holes. The blood was cleaned off the floor but the sofas still had stains and the front windows were yet to be replaced. The final story: a Sochi man (mafia, I suppose) got into an argument with a Moscow man who proceeded to beat him up. The Sochi man called his friends to come to retaliate - the Moscow contingency shot them.
I should have gone to the Sanatorium. So much for beautiful Sochi.
