by Genine Babakian
Just opposite Moscow's well-publicized McDonalds lies the Akhtamar Cafe, a quiet, cozy contrast to the glare of the golden arches.
Tucked away on the inner side of the tree-lined Tverskoi Boulevard with an understated sign that simply reads "Kafe," the Akhtamar is frequently overlooked. But those who venture upstairs to taste the dolma, garlicky madzoon and Armenian cognac are always back for more.
Built four years ago with funding from the Soviet Republic of Armenia, the cafe became the property of the Russian Federation after the break-up of the U.S.S.R. Although it still falls under the category of government ownership, the Akhtamar will soon join the growing ranks of "cooperative," or privately owned restaurants, according to its manager, Edik Goloyan.
Once Goloyan finalizes all the paperwork, he plans to expand by opening a store directly below the second-floor cafe, and perhaps even offer summer dining under the garden gazebo.
But while the transition from public to private may seem dramatic, the Akhtamar's head chef, Arkady Dalaikyan, is taking it all in stride. The food will still taste just as good, the customers will still fill the dining room, and he will still continue to work seven days a week, just as he has done for the past twenty-three years. "Without a vacation," Dalaikyan adds, puffing on an HB cigarette.
Dalaikyan, who was born in Soviet Azerbaijan, came to Moscow twenty-eight years ago, where he has worked in most of the city's better-known restaurants. He joined his friend Edik as head chef of the Akhtamar Cafe two years ago, bringing with him twenty-three years of experience in the restaurant business.
In his typically even-keeled style, Dalaikyan compares the old system with the new, summing up the advantages and disadvantages of both. Under the centralized system, he claims, it was easier to get equipment and supplies, which can be both costly and difficult to find in Moscow. "But at the same time, it was more difficult to work under the old system," Dalaikyan says. "They were always getting in your way. Now, if you want to make something of your place - go ahead and make it. You're on your own."
